Rock Climbing Photography
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New multipitch FA at Vratsa, photo story

A new two-pitch wonder is born – Ela i me vzemi 7a+, A1.

A few weeks ago Nikola Levakov and Martin Marovski put up (ground-up) a new route at Vratsa, Ivan Vasov massif. It has two pitches and is equipped with bolts and pytons. The route was possible for free ascent, but was beyond the powers of the two equippers. Someone had to take the task and make the first free ascent.

Emiliyan Kolevski is a hard boulderer and sport climber, who frequently climbs hard multipitch routes and grabs their FFA. So, naturaly, he was interested in the route. He tried it, shortly after the boulting, giving it a grade of 7c, but could not do it in a day and left it for a while. Now that he came back from a two week trip to Siurana, he attacked Ela i me vzemi feeling stronger and motivated.

Emiliyan (Emo) called me if I was interested to go with him while trying the route again and take some photos of the ascent. Naturally I accepted and here we were on our way to Vratsa. We left Sofia at noon because Emo need the shade to come over the rocks to improve the friction of the tiny holds. At 2pm we were under the route when he warmed up on the right standing route Ivan Vazov and put up a 80 m rope for me to climb on with the photo gear.

An hour later, the shade had fallen, I was high on the rope and Emo started the climb. The first pitch was an easy 6b+ and it needed no attention. The second pitch started with a right away with an overhanging 6C boulder crux, followed by a rest and a resistant technical climb to the top, no rests and hard clips. The line followed two tiny groves with small holds and awkward betа sequence. Seeing the line and the chalkless holds I was pretty confident that Emo will not be able to send it first go for the day, which would give me the chance to photograph the route from different angles. Well, Emo was in a better shape than i thought. Lucky for him (not for me) he sent it without hesitation and with obvious ease.

Damn…

Ela i me vzemi

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One Comment

  1. Zara
    Posted %A %B %e%q, %Y at %I:%M %p | #

    I snimkite, i postijenieto na katera4a sa neveroqtni .. Respekt!!

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